P50 Instructions
UPDATED Instructions for Cornet & Trumpet
Bell Bow Dent Tool with Driver & Retriever
The P50 pictured with a sample trumpet
The P50 consists of a long white guide sleeve with two
tapered rubber center bushings, a chrome plated steel shaft with a handle on one
end that has a series of black nylon balls mounted on a cable coming out of the
other and at the end of the series of nylon balls there is a steel
ball (driver) fastened on the cable and then a ‘stroke cable’, which is a short bare
cable fitted with a fine threaded lug at the end.
There are two
different sized brass ‘retriever’ balls, that screw onto this threaded lug, depending on where you
are (size-wise) in the bell. You will use the retriever that will fit thru the opening left
in the bore by the dent. Do not attempt to ‘Bull’ the dent out using this tool.
This tool is designed to work with our N57G Barrel
type Dent balls. Most dent ball sets, similar to our N57G, have a hole
drilled thru them in production. This hole should be a little over 1/8” diameter, in fact,
the P50 comes with a #29 drill, which is .136”. You can enlarge any existing holes to
make your set compliant. If your dent balls do NOT already have such a hole; you
might want to drill them first with an even smaller drill like a 5/64” or, a #48
and then use the #29 drill supplied, it will be easier to drill using the two
step process. Don’t forget to use cutting oil!
To use the P50, select a dent ball that is small
enough to just start raising the dent and not run into the side of it, thus making two dents.
If the ball is smaller than the bore of the guide tube, slide the ball over the stroke
cable and screw the proper brass retriever on to just cover all the threads.
(If the dent is extremely deep, be sure the retriever will fit thru to opening left in the bore,
and then pick a dent ball slightly larger and work your way up from that point.) You DO NOT want the retriever to
hit the dent!
Likewise, when working in the straight area near the
first valve, it is advisable to stack a couple of smaller balls between the
‘used ball’ and the steel driver at the end of the nylon balls. That way, the
retriever and the cable will not try to go around the corner into the casing and
kink the stroke cable. I would leave about ½” free run on the stroke cable in
this area.
Also, this method is sometimes used in reverse to raise deeper dents
in the curved area of the bell by putting one or a couple of smaller dents in
front of the ‘used ball’ to be in effect ‘going in with a wedge’. This also
helps prevent kinking of the stroke cable. In some badly dented bells it will
be necessary to solder-pull the dent up first, before attempting to use the P50,
like we have done in the past. Once the area is opened up, then you can use the
P50 to remove the dents and re-contour the area like we have all done for the
last 60 to 70 years. The speed is gained by being able to precisely control the
ball position and being able to drive and retrieve at will. Also, it saves
getting the ball stuck in sideways and wear and tear on the wrists using the
‘shake method’.
When you have the ball installed on the cable and the
retriever secured on the threads, you should notice that the Dent ball slides back and forth
freely on the stroke cable.
For best results, lubricate the Dent ball with a drop
of two of your Z6 or a little of your Z6 modified Petroleum jelly, some do, some
don’t. But, you’re going to have to clean the horn out anyway, so WHY NOT? Now
get the guide sleeve.
Lightly install the guide in the bore of the bell. Take
one of the two rubber bushings supplied with the guide and chose the bushing that
best fits the bell and slide it down to where the unit is firmly in the bell,
but can still easily be removed and nothing wiggles or rattles. Some people
wax the outside of the guide tube to make moving the rubber wedges a little
easier.
Insert, the tool with the ball attached into the guide
sleeve, or if the ball is bigger than the bore of the guide sleeve, install the
shaft and ball covered cable into the guide first and then put the ball on
stroke cable and install the whole unit together. Then push the handle until
the dent ball contacts the dent. Now start your ‘ramrod’ action. This will
drive the ball further in and raise the dent. Burnish the outside with your
F10A dent hammer with glancing blows, as you go, so you don’t thin the brass by
trapping it between the hammer and ball. The secret of all dent work is to
hammer ‘next to’ the dent and not on it. The tool will slide freely back and
forth in the guide and you should be placing more emphasis on the IN stroke to
drive the ball in. The weight of the tool when coupled with your ramrod action
will create enough inertia to drive the ball under most dents, pushed by the
weight of the entire P50 unit and you.
THIS IS A HAND OPERATED TOOL. DO NOT HAMMER IT INTO
THE HORN. It is also not intended to be put in a vise and used as a
ramrod to push the dent up.
When you wish to remove a ball, just use the same
technique in reverse. You should Emphasize the OUT stroke, and the retriever
will be pulling the ball back out.
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