E42 Sax Pad Slix
Home Up

       E42 Saxophone Pad Slicks

           A whole new way for a better job!

     From the Archives of Erick Brand.  Well, the idea at least.  We have taken this original idea and modernized it. (Nee RT202)

     These Pad Slicks are NOT meant to bend keys,
          but, to protect the pads from false seats from the tone hole edges
               USE AFTER the leveling is done and before the seating!
     There are two sets of directions below from two different views.


                                 
                                   Set of 9 "wrenches" for use on saxophones,
                                    will help get your pad jobs done real slick.

     When we bought Erick Brand back in 1992, there we some ideas that just needed updating.  After some gentle prodding from a few really fussy Repairmen, we sat down and completely redesigned and consolidated ideas the get the old E/B slicks to work on today's horns with todays resonators of various types. The saxes are thinner now and don't have thick soldered-on tone holes or heavier gauged 'silversoldered to the body' tone holes.  They didn't even HAVE "tone boosters" on the pads back then.  Just a single thread or rivet or sometimes a rivet with a washer under it.  Also, with the buffing, stripping and/or other damage that can happen-- you can use the extra protection these new pad slicks provide. The (improvements) were:
          1)  Only .020" (.5mm) thick, doesn't affect angle of pad to tone hole.
          2)  Double ended for more precision fit, offering 18 different sizes.
          3)  Each has a center hole to fit around most sized resonators.
          4)  Stainless steel construction (rust-frei) for those who use water.

   Oh, Yeah!.....A fifth improvement;   LOW COST.  Compare at over $175.00
                         [The major diameters of the tools run from 3/4"
                         (19mm) to 2 7/16" (61.9mm) over the 18 sizes.]

      Ferree's price....just $96.00

Not like .075" thick Votaw #2375, set of only 6, priced at $78.
     See our G21, set of 7, Pad Leveling Tools at only $39.50, for 3-D positioning and leveling the pad cups over the tone holes.

   Below;  NOT ONEbut, 2;  TWO sets of directions;
                 from 2 very different points of view.

     First, from Steve Goodson,  New Orleans, LA

        ~Using the Ferree "Saxgourmet" pad irons by Steve Goodson~
     These great tools are a must if you do any saxophone work at all!
As you install pads and resonators in the key cups,  apply a few drops of water to the pad and heat the irons on your bench burner and use them to smooth and tighten the leather.
     As you assemble the horn, heat the pad cup until the shellac softens and insert the appropriate pad iron between the cup and the tone hole.
     Move the iron back and forth to ensure perfect alignment. If you've done the job right and the tone holes are level and the key cups are straight, you'll have to do very little further regulating.
     These irons are a tremendous time saver and do a much better job for the client.  I want you to know that they are saving me a minimum of one hour per overhaul.  If you're doing any saxophone repair at all, these tools are a must.
          Don't go near a saxophone without them!

     "The more I use the slicks, the happier I become.  Next to my screwdriver, they are the most used tools on my bench!"   STEVE GOODSON  www.saxgourmet.com

     Next,  Eric Satterlee,  Meridian Winds, MI
     Although you will no doubt adapt to your own routine of use with these tools, when I was first exposed to the concept of utilizing these pad slicks with their intended method it was explained to me as follows.
#1. As always, check the tone hole/s for level and correct as needed.
#2. Level the key cup side to side and front to back to an extent that you are satisfied with. You can utilize this set of tools in doing so by selecting and placing one on the tone hole surface and bringing the pad cup down on top of the slick which allows you an excellent gauge of preparedness.
#3. Select the correct size pad for the cup (I will always remember when I first started repairing saxophones in 1972 Cliff Ferree showed me the correct way to select a pad. The pad should press snugly into the cup, yet should pop out if you hold the key cup in one hand and rap it firmly against your other palm a few times.)
#4. Melt adhesive onto the back of the pad (I have used George's Glue for the past many years). On smaller pads keep the glue to the center of the pad, on larger pads keep the glue away from the outer edge of the pad. Use an amount of glue you believe to be adequate for pad height and to float the pad.
#5. After the instrument is assembled and you are ready to begin the seating process select the pad slick you believe to be best suited relative to the size of the key cup, the tone hole and the size of the pad resonator. Once selected, position it in place to begin the seating operation. #6. Gradually heat the pad cup. I use the Ferree's L60 Mini Micro Torch, exclusively, in saxophone work. If you have experience in padding saxophones it has no doubt become like a 6th sense to you when the adhesive is becoming semi molten.
#7. At the point when you believe the adhesive is softened suitably to allow for the pad to "Float", while pressing the key cup/pad firmly down on top of the slick, rotate the slick back and forth between 4 and 8 (on the clock) repeating this motion several times. This rotation of the pad in the cup distributes the adhesive under the pad as the pad finds it's "level/flat" position on top of the pad slick, which you have already determined is laying on top of a "level" tone hole. (If you remove a pad from it's cup after using this method you will see how the glue has distributed itself in the cup.)
#8. Lift the pad cup enough to quickly remove the pad slick, apply sax wedge or clamp to the key cup, allow to cool. When it has cooled you can check the results with a leak light, however, if you have prepared your work adequately, the pad covers!
#9. By assembling the instrument in sequence (upper stack Bb, lower stack & G#, side F#, low Eb & C, RH side keys, octave mech., upper stack, high F rocker, LH palm keys, low C#, Low B, Low Bb, G# lever) you can check your work with a leak-light when the instrument is completely assembled, however, after you have used this method a few times the light becomes a "Just to make sure" measure. --- Eric

              Ferree's Tools-"the most copied tools in the world"

        Home ] Up ]

              
              Copyright © 2001 Ferree's Tools, Inc.
              Last modified: March 14, 2008