New Drill Rod Sizes
17 new sizes, 31 in ALL! (W-1, Water Hardening)
~The Most complete selection available~
~N50 Drill Rod ea. individual size only $2.00 per 36" (914mm) piece
~N50A set of 14 pieces, 1 ea. of original sizes 18" long~ $14.00+s/h
~N50B set of 31 pieces, 1 ea. 18" (457mm) long~ Just $31.00+s/h
The 36" pieces will be cut in half for shipping
unless special ordered to remain
uncut
Sizes are: Drill------Inch
size------Metric size
1/16"
.0625" 1.587mm
#52
.063
1.600
#51
.066
1.676
#50
.069
1.752
#49
.072
1.828
#48
.075
1.905*
#47
.077
1.955
5/64"
.0781
1.983
#46
.079
2.006*
#45
.081
2.057*
#44
.085
2.159*
#43
.088
2.235*
#42
.092
2.336*
3/32"
.0937
2.380
#41
.095
2.413
#40
.097
2.463*
#39
.099
2.514*
#38
.101
2.565*
#37
.103
2.616
#36
.106
2.692*
#35
.108
2.743*
7/64"
.1093
2.776
#34
.110
2.794
#33
.112
2.844*
#32
.115
2.921*
3MM
.1181
2.999
#31
.120
3.048*
1/8"
.1250
3.175
#30
.127
3.225
3/16"
.1875
4.762
1/4"
.2500
6.350
The asterisk (*) denotes
our 14 original sizes.
~Creating a Replacement Rod for Older Instruments~
Most of the time nowadays,
like in the good old days, replacement parts were scarce or not available at
all. In some cases it is way more simple than just a key, it was a rod or screw
that you winded up needing. Pivot screws can be adapted from other ones or other ones
can be used, sometimes making for a better engineered situation all together. (Headed
vs. non-headed) But, this is about making "Rods" or as selmer calls them "screws";
Pivot
Screws and Hinge Rods are the more accurate terms that we use
here.
Now that we have 31 different sizes of drill rod,
you can actually improve bad fitting keys by using an oversized piece of drill
rod instead of swedging the key, which also thins and stretches it; usually
causing you to have to trim some off. Additionally, it won't disturb the
lacquered or plated surface and no harm is done by so
doing.
After measuring or fitting the piece of drill rod
you are going to use, here is the procedure for fabricating or making a
new "rod".
Assuming you have a bench motor with a hollow
shaft (like real repairmen use), insert the rod you have cut to length maybe a
quarter to half inch too long into the chuck with most of the rod inside the
motor to prevent whipping. Leave enough of the rod out of the front of the
chuck to go thru the post and then tighten the rod in the chuck.
Measure the outside or what is called the major
diameter of the threads by measuring the old rods threads, another rod from the
same horn that fits the threads, or the tap you rethreaded the post with. (Or
you may check the chart of sizing on this website.) Take
a fine file and then file, with the motor spinning, the area where you are going to
thread with your properly sized die or matching die to the tap you used in the
post. Don't be in a hurry. Stop and check sizing often, once you have
determined the rate of material removal.
When you have reduced the size of the end of the
rod to the size you have established as being correct, take a small (Swiss
Pattern) file and create a gutter, gap or relief where the filed area meets the rod
shoulder you have created. This shoulder will act as a stop for the rod against the post
face. The diameter size of this gutter, or relief, should be the same as the
minor diameter of the threads, or even a few thousandths (.1mm) smaller. If you do not do this, the threads will keep attempting to go through the
post and screw themselves off center and perhaps, even break. You don't want
that!
After confirming that you are using the correct
die and that it is properly set to size, use some light oil and start the die on
the end of the surface you have prepared for threading. When you get close to
the chuck, unscrew the die and thread it on the other way so that the flat side
can go up to the chuck face. This will insure that the threads are all the way
along the surface you have provided and that no threads jump the gap. The shoulder
should hit the post with all the threads in the post. You can finish the thread
end to the same radius as the post using a band sander or if you have a good
eye, in your bench motor using a file. Again, measure often for best
results.
Next, screw the rod into where it will finally
reside and using a small file mark the rod at the place where the rod enters the
entry or lead
post. Cut the rod off about 1/16" further out with your side cutters and finish the
end of the rod to the same radius as the post ball using either a band sander or
by reinstalling the rod into your bench motor and using a file. You should
still be able to see the mark as a finishing point for your
radius.
Now, all you have to do is
slot the rod. I recommend using the G44 slotting tool OR if you want to
risk loosing all the aforementioned work, use a jewelers saw. Remember,
the deeper the slot the weaker the rod end will be for future removal. I
find, around .040" (1mm) depth works fine.
Ferree's Tools-"Because
they work!"
